STARLING - THIS ONE WILL SOAR!

A recent addition to Esher High Street is Starling, the brainchild of Nick Beardshaw, the chef who wowed the judges of Great British Menu with his winning fish starter: A Moon Shaped Pool, and his Balloon Girl dessert. Both of these dishes are included in his launch menu, and I was so excited to try them.

Location

The restaurant is on the left, just as you drive into the high street from the ‘Scilly Isles’ side, and immediately before the restaurant there’s a turning for a handily placed public car park.

Decor

The restaurant is modern, with tables well spaced and an attractive mural of a murmuration of starlings. The Starling name was chosen as Nick feels that they demonstrate the very finest example of teamwork – crucial to a good brigade.

Our Meal

I began with my favourite cocktail, a Negroni, and my husband was pleased to discover that they had Free Damm alcohol free beer available.

I chose Nick’s award-winning starter and it was spectacular! Hand dived Orkney Scallop with a Green Thai curry, Salty fingers and marinated cucumber. The presentation was outstanding and this iridescent dish was delicate and ‘bowl lickingly’ good.

You can view my video on instagram here. I do think, though, that they should perhaps remove the frame after the spectacular presentation, as it would make it easier to access the food.

My husband chose Pressed Game, Pineapple Chutney, Celeriac Remoulade, and Freya, the super efficient and charming assistant manager, suggested a portion of warm bread to accompany it.

The terrine was solid, very meaty and rich, and the intensity of flavour with the remoulade was incredible. It was almost mushroomy in flavour, with textural pieces of celeriac and pistachios.

I enjoyed a glass of Sauvignon Blanc from one of my favourite South African winemakers – Doran Vineyards.

For my main I had Gigha Halibut, Seaweed Butter, Leek, Parsnip, Chicken Wing Reduction.

The leek was encased in crispy breadcrumbs, and I hadn’t encountered parsnip puree with fish before, and the chicken wing element was also a new one for me. Needless to say, they were in perfect harmony with the fish and it was a superb dish.

My husband’s Mushroom ‘Risotto’ Deep Fried Egg, Roscoff Onion, 36 Month Aged Parmesan was another revelation…mainly because it didn’t contain any rice at all.

It was declared fabulous, and the only complaint was the portion size, as it was so good, he would have liked a more generous serving.

So to dessert: my Balloon Girl was as spectacular as forecast. A baked version of the famous Banksy artwork of the same name, it comprised Raspberry Cheesecake and Chocolate Torte, almost too beautiful to destroy by eating, but one has to make sacrifices, of course.