If you thought you knew The Crown pub on Chiswick High Road, think again.
It’s now called The Hound and owned and run by JKS restaurants, who own Trishna, Kitchen Table, Gymkhana, Lyles, Hoppers, Bao, and Bibi, among others.
This former police station (the cells are visible and used now as a wine store) is a large building with a spacious internal courtyard, with a roof that can be opened or closed, depending on the weather. The Hound’s executive chef is John Sparks, who works alongside culinary director James Knappett of the group’s two Michelin-star Kitchen Table in Fitzrovia, serving a diverse menu inspired by British pub classics.
Our Meal
It was busy the night we were there, and once seated at the side of the courtyard, we ordered our drinks.
For me it was the usual favourite – a Negroni – and my husband was pleased to discover that they serve Lucky Saint on draught (a nod to the number of people now choosing to avoid alcohol). I’m not one of those though, and my Negroni was excellent and served with a giant ice cube that was branded The Hound – a nice touch I thought.
The menu is well composed and allows guests to choose just to have a snack or sandwich with a drink. We were pleased to see this, as too many local pubs have become ‘fine dining’ and expensive. We chose the Cauliflower & Onion Bhajis £8.50 (Chaat Masala, Tamarind chutney) to start and a portion of Salt Cod Croquettes £7.50 (lemon Aioli, cucumber).
Other tempting starters included Black Pudding Scotch Egg, Grilled Red Prawns, Cornish Mussels and Pork Scratchings, ranging from £5 to £16, with some available as a main course portion too.
The croquettes were piping hot and really good, but rather frustratingly as they were so good, the portion was three, so not ideal for sharing. We did suggest to our waiter that perhaps they should offer them individually priced so folk can choose how many to order. The bhajis were a very generous portion and almost meaty in texture. I tried a bhaji with the lemon aioli too, and that worked really well.
I had opted for another starter instead of a main course and had Steak Tartare (£15) with a side of green salad and we shared some chunky chips. My husband can never resist a good pie, so chose Chicken & Leek Pie with Mashed Potato and Buttered Greens £25.
I was in steak tartare heaven and particularly impressed also with my salad which was generous with lovely fresh lettuce leaves topped with fresh tarragon, chives and parsley.
The pie was a disappointment on presentation, as the pie itself was a tad on the meagre side, and to my husband’s chagrin, was just a topped pie, with no base. That said, it was well filled and tasty and the mash very smooth and buttery. The wilted cabbage was also excellent, so a well balanced, but slightly small serving.
The dessert menu is rather limited, with just four options, one being English cheeses. With another being Sticky Toffee Pudding with Cornish Clotted Cream £10, my husband was very easy to please! I was replete, so I didn’t need anything else.
The wine list is well structured and I enjoyed a glass of excellent Rioja at £11.50. There are plenty of wines by the glass and half bottle, too, but only a few English wines, which I felt was perhaps a shame, as there are so many good ones available now.
The Hound is a great addition to Chiswick High Road, and is obviously already proving popular with locals. Service is excellent, with well balanced relaxed friendliness and professionalism. There are a couple of special inclusive Feast tasting menus at £55 and £45 (served family style for a minimum of four), requiring 72 hours notice but they sound delicious and will be ideal for a larger gathering.
